Azelia Barolo San Rocco

Very concentrated and complex on the nose with blackberry, dark chocolate and toasted oak aromas. Full-bodied and very ripe, with loads of fruit and a long, caressing finish. A powerful and rich wine. Builds on the palate. Best after 2009.

Azelia’s best-known wine may be the Bricco Fiasco, but in 2001 as in other recent vintages I find the San Rocco even more compelling. It is more intense and masculine in its expression of Serralunga terroir, with a complex nose of smoke, scorched earth, minerals and spices. As it sits in the glass the wine opens, gradually revealing notes of rich dense dark fruit with plenty of structure, finishing with broad yet fine tannins and tremendous overall balance. It is an immensely satisfying modern-styled Barolo. Anticipated maturity: 2009–2016.

Full, bright red. Red fruits, coffee and nuts on the nose. Fresher and tighter than the Bricco Fiasco, with nicely delineated red fruit flavors. A more backward style, and quite firm, even a bit youthfully tough, on the back end. Azelia used about 40% new barriques for these 2001s, down from 70% in 2000.