Château Léoville-Poyferré, Saint-Julien

One of the more flamboyant and sumptuous wines of the vintage, this inky/purple-colored St.-Julien reveals thrilling levels of opulence, richness and aromatic pleasures. A soaring bouquet of creme de cassis, charcoal, graphite and spring flowers is followed by a super-concentrated wine with silky tannins, stunning amounts of glycerin, a voluptuous, multilayered mouthfeel and nearly 14% natural alcohol. Displaying fabulous definition for such a big, plump, massive, concentrated effort, I suspect the tannin levels are high even though they are largely concealed by lavish amounts of fruit, glycerin and extract. Anticipated maturity: 2018–2040.

An immensely structured wine, packed with dark tannins promising aging potential. It is complex, powerful, layered with new wood and concentration, finishing with dark plum fruits and acidity.

Bright medium ruby. Classic Saint-Julien aromas of cassis, licorice, tar, minerals and dark chocolate. Lush, sweet and powerful, with a superb glyceral texture to the dark berry and dark chocolate flavors. Huge wine but not at all heavy. The extremely long, echoing finish features utterly noble tannins that saturate the front teeth. Offers a show-stopping combination of sweetness and structure. Built for three decades of life in bottle.

Solid notes of steeped black currant, ganache-coated fig and plum eau de vie pump along in this very dark red, but with well-integrated structure. Long and winey through the finish, with the grip extending everything nicely. Best from 2016 through 2026.

Inky purple. Brooding, masculine nose offers black plum, chocolate liqueur, orange peel and espresso. Soft and supple on entry, then a bit youthfully aggressive in the middle, but with a distinctly chewy texture supporting the ultraripe black plum and chocolate flavors. Finishes with building, slightly dry tannins and hints of Oriental plum liqueur and peppery soy sauce. Always a sexy wine, this Leoville Poyferre has excellent balance and is more discreet than some other vintages of the last 20 years. It may still be a little short on finesse, but it's hard to argue with its almost decadent, voluptuous appeal. Very well done, and likely to be one of the ch a teau's most successful wines ever.