G.H. Mumm Cordon Rouge Brut Champagne

Toast and dried fruit notes mix in this very harmonious dry Champagne, which is full of flavor — dried apricot, candied orange peel, nut and smoke — but still elegant and lightweight. The rich, toasty note lingers on the vibrant finish. Drink now through 2020.

This must be one of the most familiar nonvintage Champagnes, so it’s good to be able to report that it is much improved. The dosage has been lowered, and there is considerable freshness, crispness with apple and toast. It is full-bodied but well balanced.

Light gold. Buttered apple and pear aromas, with hints of anise and brioche. Medium in weight, with a silky texture and sweet orchard fruit flavors framed by gentle acidity. Broad and rich on the finish, with a lingering note of sweet butter.