Georges Duboeuf Fleurie, Clos des Quatre Vents

The Duboeuf 2009 Fleurie Clos des Quatre Vents — tasted from tank; and as usual, a cuvée from old vines treated to long, cool fermentation — displays ripe blackberry and blueberry, ocean breeze, black tea, borage, and bittersweet iris perfume in the nose. Silken and expansive on the palate, this is a little less intriguing but even more generous than the corresponding Fleurie Grand Pre, finishing with soothing yet stimulating length, and likely to be worth following for 3–4 years. A very ripe and concentrated but awkwardly woody “Prestige” bottling of Fleurie did not give me much hope for its post-bottling evolution.

Scents of crushed rose petals add to the cool, black cherry fruit intensity of this wine. The earthy grit of the tannin balances the fruit with a scent of the soil, finishing tight, peppery and potent. It’s structured to age for several years and to match braised tripe or other earthy meats.