Tardieu-Laurent Châteauneuf-du-Pape Vieilles Vignes

Still shrouded by its bacony toast, this has a lot to resolve, but the massive core of blackberry, black currant, fig, loam, dark tobacco and molten chocolate is very impressive. The finish shows the grip and balance of the vintage, boding well for serious cellaring. Best from 2009 through 2032.

The 2005 Chateauneuf du Pape Vieilles Vignes (90% Grenache and equal parts Mourvedre and Syrah) comes primarily from the famed sector of Chateauneuf du Pape known as La Crau. This is a beautiful wine that is more elegant than the regular Chateauneuf du Pape, with raspberry and kirsch liqueur notes, a deep ruby color, finesse, acidity, and ripe tannin. It seems to be a terroir-based statement of Chateauneuf du Pape that cuts a style midway between the traditionalists and the modernists. This wine will need several years of bottle age, and should drink nicely for 15 or more years.

Ruby-red. Superripe, liqueur-like red fruit aromas complemented by a deep chocolate tone. Brighter in the mouth, taking on a fresh raspberry quality, with fine, silky tannins providing structural support. The finish is sweet but racy, with excellent persistence to the red berry flavors.

Dark ruby. Ripe, youthfully brooding dark fruit flavors are slow to unfold, eventually giving up floral blackberry and blueberry notes and a dollop of licorice. Spicy cherry and blackberry flavors are a touch bitter and tannic but gain sweetness on the finish, reluctantly. This needs cellaring.

Dark ruby. Ripe, youthfully brooding dark fruit flavors are slow to unfold, eventually giving up floral blackberry and blueberry notes and a dollop of licorice. Spicy cherry and blackberry flavors are a touch bitter and tannic but gain sweetness on the finish, reluctantly.