This highly aromatic, perfumed white (gewürz means “spiced” in German) has been cultivated for thousands of years. It may have originated in the village of Tramin in Italy’s Alto Adige region. Gewürz (most often referred to by its shortened name) is the most widely planted variety in the Alsace region of France, where it reaches the height of its expression. While it can be sweet (in late-harvest wines labeled Vendange Tardive), the bulk of it is fermented dry. In its pedestrian form, Gewürz is meant to be drunk young when the exotic fruit flavors are at their peak; not so in Alsace where these heady wines possess a concentrated structure capable of long aging.

One of the most distinctive grape varieties, Gewürz is so heavily scented that it smells deceivingly sweet, even though it tastes dry. Deeply colored, low in acidity, but high in alcohol, this full-bodied white is well-endowed with explosive flavors of litchis, roses, Asian pears and the telltale pie “spice” duo of cloves and nutmeg. Although Gewürztraminer is grown around the world, it performs best in cool climates. The Anderson Valley of California, parts of Oregon and Washington, and New York’s Finger Lakes are regions producing excellent domestic versions.