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Nebbiolo takes it name from the Italian word nebbia (“fog”). The heavy mists that roll over the hills of Piedmont slowly ripen the grapes that make some of the finest wines of Italy. While only 3% of all the wines produced in Piedmont are made from Nebbiolo (there are many more vineyards planted with Barbera and Dolcetto), this red grape is responsible for the reputation of the region as one of the great European viticulture sites alongside Tuscany, Bordeaux, Burgundy, Ribera del Duero and Rioja.
The success of Nebbiolo is extremely site-specific, with the communes of Barbaresco and Barolo producing wines of amazing complexity and mind-boggling longevity. The best sites, or crus, are similar to those of Burgundy, and are referred to as sori (vineyards with good southern exposure) and bric or bricco (highest part of the vineyard). These classic wines are standard fare in any serious collector’s cellar, and will age upwards of thirty years. Patience will be rewarded, as time in the bottle will soften the austere tannins and evolve all the complexities that make Nebbiolo famous.
No other wine classic is so tied to its home terroir as Nebbiolo. While attempts to emulate its greatness have been tried in Argentina, Australia, California and other wine regions, it is only in Italy that this red grape fully shows its formidable character. Sometimes described as an “iron fist in a velvet glove,” Nebbiolo is as elegant as any Pinot Noir from Burgundy, and as structured as a Cabernet from Bordeaux. The aromas of a mature Barolo can be sublime with rose petals, black truffles and leather. The fruit is concentrated and zesty, with fresh red berries and black cherries bursting through its medium-full body. For near-term drinking, try the more approachable Nebbiolo d’Alba, Nebbiolo delle Langhe, Ghemme or Gattinara.
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