VN93 Vinous Jun 2022

"The 2020 Bianco Contrade SM is a varietal Grillo with a wild yet alluring bouquet that reminds me more of a spiced, citrus-inspired, herbal tea than wine. Then mix in some smoke, a hint of underbrush and viola. It’s soft-textured and savory to the core, with flinty young peach motivated by brisk acids and hints of sour lemon. This leaves a staining of minerality, along with notes of ginger and tangerine, while tapering off with impressive length and concentration. Wow, I’m finding it hard to put this glass down. This is the first vintage of the SM with a strikeout on the label, as Occhipinti can not legally add the Contrada name “Santa Margherita” to the label. The vines are planted in sandy, calcareous soils at 500 meters in Chiaramonte Gulfi, just north of Vittoria." (93 pts.)