Warre's Vintage Porto 2016 / 750 ml.

Gorgeous, with warm plum reduction and gently steeped raspberry, blackberry and boysenberry fruit flavors forming the core, all inlaid with warm ganache and smoldering tobacco accents. Very plush in feel, but has no lack of energy, as everything sails beautifully through the long finish. A late echo of anise completes the seduction. Best from 2035 through 2055. 3,000 cases made.

This is a juicy wine, with dense black fruits that are cut by bright acidity. The tannins give power and long-term aging potential to this impressive wine. Drink from 2028.

The 2016 Vintage Port is a 46/37 blend from old vines and Touriga Nacional, with Touriga Franca making up the rest. It was bottled in May 2018 with 113 grams of residual sugar. The fruit on this is gloriously expressive and concentrated. It’s classic and delicious, but it doesn’t show the power and structure of the top wines. Charles Symington called it very elegant. Or, say, understated and approachable. It is pretty delicious, though, and I have to give this some props just because it is. Don’t expect it to be the best ager in the group. There were 4,250 cases produced.