Domaine Grand Veneur Chateauneuf-du-Pape Vieilles Vignes 2009 / 750 ml.

The most limited cuvee (350 cases) is the 2009 Chateauneuf du Pape Vieilles Vignes (a blend of 50% Grenache, 40% Mourvedre and 10% Syrah from 50–100 year old vines located in the northern sector of the appellation). Its opaque purple color is accompanied by a gorgeous perfume of graphite, truffles, damp earth, cassis, kirsch, licorice and spice box. Despite the fact that it sees a lot of new oak, it reveals no evidence of wood. The fruit dominates in this quintessential, classic, full-bodied, powerful, massive as well as surprisingly pure and elegant Chateauneuf du Pape. Unlike most examples, the precociousness and suppleness of the 2009 vintage have given this wine a more forward appeal, although it still needs 2–3 years of cellaring. Drink it over the following 25–30 years.

A prodigious effort, the 2009 Vieilles Vignes from Grand Veneur includes a whopping 40% Mourvèdre in the blend (there’s also 10% Syrah, with the balance being Grenache), which no doubt accounts for its dark flavor profile. This is a full-bodied, lushly textured, expansive wine, with a finish that seems to go on forever. Approachable now, it should age well for 10–12 years at least.

The 2009 Chateauneuf du Pape Vieilles Vignes (a cuvee that was first made in 2006) is a blend of 50% Grenache, 30% Mourvedre and 20% Syrah, all aged in new oak casks. Despite all the new oak, its influence is marginal. Some toasty notes are present, but the wine is very full-bodied with extraordinarily intense aromas and flavors of creme de cassis, kirsch, lavender, licorice and hints of lead pencil shavings and smoke. Dense, full-bodied, tannic and super intense, this is a massive 2009 that begs for 4–5 years of cellaring. It should drink well for 20–25 years thereafter.