Ktima Gerovassiliou Xinomavro Rose Wine 2021 / 750 ml.

The 2021 Xinomavro Rosé is unoaked, dry and comes in at 13.4% alcohol. This is made from relatively young vines (five to seven years old). The heavy bottle makes it seem important, but the question is: Does the wine hold up? It’s pretty good. It is not a powerful pink, but it does have good concentration and presents a reasonable expression of Xinomavro. It’s even a little earthy. This is a fine choice for a pink to pair with foods. That’s probably its highest and best use. It’s less useful as the one you want to sip all by itself on a porch, but some will certainly like it that way. It is drinking great now, and it should be equally good in the summer of 2023. Beyond that, we’ll see, but it should hold a bit. (Mark Squires)