Grgich Hills Estate Chardonnay 2019 / 750 ml.

When Mike Grgich made the 1973 Chateau Montelena Chardonnay—the white wine that won the Paris Tasting—he used fruit from the Bacigalupi Vineyard in the Russian River Valley. He soon moved into a partnership with Austin Hills, assembling an organically farmed estate that includes 88 acres in Carneros and 163 in American Canyon, the cool, southern districts of the Napa Valley where this chardonnay grows. Now, at 98, Grgich leaves winegrowing to his nephew, Ivo Jeramaz, who produced this complex and compelling wine. Put aside any preconceptions you might have about contemporary Napa Valley chardonnay; consider instead an agriculture that might include native corn (one taster cited the ethereal sweetness of nixtamalized corn) and stone-fruit orchards (a scent of apricots). There’s the smokiness of ancho chile and a scent of woodland mushrooms in the wine’s dark-toned leesiness. Then the layers of flavor last, harmonious and delicious.

Mangoes, papayas, cooked lemons, ripe melons, gun smoke and salted caramel on the nose. Full-bodied, ripe and rich yet bright. Smoky, toasty notes to close. From organically grown grapes. Drink now.